Textile Knowledge Hub ('GSM, Yarn Count, Weaving vs. Knitting')
Successful overseas fabric sourcing requires mastering objective technical terminology. Below is our comprehensive engineering guide explaining critical metrics, yarn numbering systems, structural weave differences, and laboratory performance ratings.
GSM (Grams per Square Meter)
Metrics & DensityThe universal metric measurement of fabric weight and structural density. Higher GSM indicates a thicker, heavier fabric. For example, our summer single jerseys run between 140-180 GSM, winter double interlocks run 280-360 GSM, and heavy industrial protective fabric drills run 260-320 GSM.
When specifying GSM, always check commercial tolerance (+/- 3% is standard international export practice).
Yarn Count / Ne (Number English)
Yarn EngineeringIndicates the fineness and thickness of the spun yarn. In the indirect cotton system (`Ne`), a higher number signifies a finer, thinner yarn (`e.g., 40s/1 single yarn vs. coarse 16s/1 yarn`). For high-tensile protective fabrics, two single yarns are often twisted together (`e.g., 32s/2 double-ply`).
Finer counts like 40s/1 or 60s/1 produce ultra-smooth poplin shirting, while coarse counts like 16s/1 or 20s/1 build rugged twill drill.
Weaving vs. Knitting Structures
Fabric ConstructionWoven fabrics (`Poplin, Twill, Ripstop, Suiting`) are constructed on looms by interlacing two distinct sets of yarns (`lengthwise Warp and crosswise Weft`) at precise 90-degree right angles, delivering high dimensional stability and tear strength. Knitted fabrics (`Single Jersey, Rib, Interlock`) are formed by interlooping continuous yarn loops on circular knitting machines, providing inherent comfort stretch, breathability, and drape.
Choose Woven for structured uniforms, tailored suiting, and protective fabric; choose Knits for T-shirts, activewear, and hoodies.
Warp & Weft Alignment
Fabric ConstructionIn woven textiles, Warp threads run parallel to the selvedge (`lengthwise along the roll`), held under continuous tension on the loom beam. Weft (`filling`) threads are inserted horizontally across the width from edge to edge.
Garment patterns must be aligned correctly along the warp grain line during cutting table spreading to prevent garment twisting after washing.
Pilling & Abrasion Resistance (`ASTM D4970`)
Physical PerformanceAn objective laboratory abrasion test where fabric circles are rubbed against standard wool abrasive cloth under controlled pressure. Pilling (`balling up of surface fibers`) is evaluated on a scale from Grade 1 (`severe pilling`) to Grade 5 (`no change`). Our bio-polished knits achieve Grade 4.0-4.5.
For commercial fashion export, Grade 3.5 is minimum acceptable; for luxury retail and heavy protective fabrics, demand Grade 4.0 or higher.
Dimensional Shrinkage Control (`ISO 6330`)
Physical PerformanceThe measurement of length and width contraction after standardized machine washing and drying. Uncontrolled cotton can shrink up to 8-10%. Across our Dongyang finishing network, advanced stenter heat-setting and mechanical pre-shrinking lock dimensional shrinkage under <3.0% for knits and <1.5% for wovens.
Always request wash-test shrinkage reports before grading garment pattern markers.
TC vs. TR Composition Blends
Composition BreakdownTC (`Terylene/Cotton or Polyester/Cotton blend, e.g., 65% Poly / 35% Cotton`) combines high abrasion resistance and colorfastness with breathable cotton comfort, making it the global standard for industrial protective fabrics. TR (`Terylene/Rayon or Polyester/Viscose blend`) offers a smooth, worsted wool-like hand-feel and excellent drape, ideal for wrinkle-resistant tailored suiting.
TC is engineered for heavy laundry and durability; TR is engineered for executive drape and crease recovery.
Woven vs. Knitted Fabrics ('Quick Sourcing Guide')
| Technical Attribute | Woven Fabrics ('Precision Air-Jet') | Knitted Fabrics ('Circular Machines') |
|---|---|---|
| Yarn Interlacing Method | Two sets of yarns ('Warp + Weft') crossing at exact 90° right angles. | Continuous interlooping of yarn coils forming flexible interconnected stitches. |
| Inherent Mechanical Stretch | Rigid ('unless spandex/elastane is added or mechanical crimp ripstop is used'). | High inherent bi-directional stretch and elastic recovery due to loop structure. |
| Dimensional Stability & Shrinkage | Superior stability; minimal shrinkage ('< 1.5% warp/weft'). High tear strength. | Requires strict stenter heat-setting and pre-shrinking to hold tolerances ('< 3.0%'). |
| Typical Garment Applications | Tailored suits, executive dress shirts, cargo work pants, hospital scrubs, jackets. | T-shirts, polo shirts, luxury hoodies, leggings, infant rompers, activewear. |
If you are developing a new garment line and need advice on whether to select a 32s/1 combed cotton single jersey or a 40s x 40s compact poplin, contact our Dongyang textile engineering desk. We provide comprehensive free technical consultation.